How to choose an abaya: fabric, cut, size and colour

An abaya is the piece a modest wardrobe is built around, so it is worth choosing slowly. This guide walks through the four decisions in order: the cut, the fabric, the size and length, and the colour. Our abayas collection holds 105 styles from $86 to $157; most come in US sizes 4 to 18 and can be made to your measurements.

1. Open or closed

An open abaya fastens at the front or is left open like a long coat, worn over a slip dress or a plain maxi dress. It is the easier one to layer and to take from day to evening: belted, it is a dress; open, it is a coat. A closed abaya goes on over the head and is an outfit in itself, the simplest thing to put on in the morning. If you are buying your first abaya, a closed style in a plain fabric will be worn most; if you already own dresses you love, an open abaya multiplies them. Our guide to styling the open abaya has ideas.

2. The fabric

Choose the fabric by when you will wear it. Crepe is matte and hangs in clean lines, which suits daily wear and travel; our two-tone crepe abayas, at $112, are made in it. Satin has a quiet sheen for evenings, Ramadan nights and weddings, and is the largest group in the collection. Linen breathes on warm days and softens with wearing. Crease-resistant fabrics come out of a suitcase ready to wear, the choice for Umrah. Chiffon and organza-like fabrics are light and a little sheer, so they are worn over a slip dress, usually as an occasion layer. The fabric of each abaya, and how to care for it, is on its product page; our fabric guide compares crepe, chiffon and satin.

3. Size and length

Start from the size guide: compare your bust, waist and hips, and if you are between two sizes choose the larger, because an abaya is meant to skim, not fit. Then think about length. A standard size assumes a standard height; if you are tall or petite, or you like the hem to fall at a particular point, have the abaya made to your measurements. Choose Custom measurements on the product page, enter them once, and they are saved for your next order. A made-to-measure abaya needs 14 extra working days and cannot be returned, so take your time over the measurements; our guide on how to take your measurements shows each one.

4. The colour

Black is the classic and goes with every hijab you own. A second abaya in a colour, rosewood, blue or a soft neutral, changes a wardrobe more than a second black one. Two-tone designs give you both in one piece: a dark body with a lighter panel. The picture on each product page decides the colour; our descriptions name it as it appears.

What to wear underneath

Under an open or lightweight abaya, a smooth slip dress keeps it opaque and comfortable. Under a closed crepe or satin abaya nothing special is needed. With a khimar over the top, an abaya becomes prayer and mosque wear in a moment.

Abayas for Eid, weddings and evenings

An embellished abaya set, with its matching slip dress and belt, is as formal as any gown and far easier to wear through a long celebration. Pearl trim or contrast piping is enough decoration. See our Eid & Ramadan and Evening collections, and the Eid outfit ideas in the Journal.

Buying an abaya online

Every product page gives the fabric, the care, the sizes with their European equivalents, and measurements where we have them. Standard sizes are dispatched within 1 to 3 working days and delivered worldwide by post or by DHL Express; the shipping page lists the time and cost for your country. A standard-size abaya can be returned within 14 days of delivery, unworn, unwashed and with its tags; see the returns page. If you are unsure between two sizes or two fabrics, write to us with your measurements and the occasion, and we will tell you plainly which to choose.

Common questions

What is the difference between an abaya and a modest dress?

An abaya is cut loose and straight from the shoulder, often open at the front, and is worn as an outer layer; a modest dress is shaped at the waist or with a belt and is worn on its own. Many of our dresses with long sleeves do the same job as a closed abaya in a more fitted line.

Which abaya is best for everyday wear?

A closed crepe abaya in black or a dark colour: matte, easy to care for, and right for work, errands and prayer alike.

Which abaya is best for Umrah?

A loose cut in a light, crease-resistant fabric that does not show through; our Umrah packing guide has the full list.

Can an abaya be made to my measurements?

Most can. Choose Custom measurements on the product page; it needs 14 extra working days before dispatch.